Category Archives: Pattern Release

Bustier Top – Published

Bustier Top - Interweave Crochet, Summer 2009

Bustier Top - Interweave Crochet, Summer 2009

Weeeeee! So much in this current issue of Interweave Crochet, Summer 2009! First, we have the Bustier Top. I know it sounds cliche’ but man, I really loved designing this.

Here are a few helpful links to start us off: Bustier Top On Ravelry, Bustier Top available at Interweave Crochet.

How often do I design women’s garments? Not often enough after this. When I started designing crochet patterns, I mostly created baby items, due to fire child being an infant. I did long to create garments for the adult, but at that time, baby and tot items reigned.

It is now coming to be that she is growing older, and while I can still make things for her, I am feeling myself wanting to transition, or well not transition, but broaden my garment designing area.

So alas, we have the Bustier Top!

Bustier Top, back/side view

Bustier Top, back/side view

I wanted something feminine, but not something that screams I am a girl and then some! I wanted something that would be classy, but still be sexy. I wanted something to hide bra straps. Perhaps that is from me being your larger than the run of the mill bust sizes…But either way, for this my inclination was – no bra straps showing. They do have their place,  with the layering of camisoles and tanks that are abundant these days, (oh how I wish I could get away with that look), but for some reason, this one just said, “cover me, if just a little…”

Just like all of my baby tot wear, this garment works from the top down. It really, really is highly customizable too. And I think that can be a problem in the industry. Seeing a striking outfit, fitted on an hourglass model, and an apple shape works it up, only to be disappointed.

Busttier Top, back view

Bustier Top, back view

Some garments are only meant to be for a pear shape, or an hourglass shape. That may be due to the nature of the style of the outfit, or the way the instructions are written not allowing much room for customization, if any at all.

With the Bustier Top, I designed in such a way that all important that all of our shapely parts can be accodomated, from a small A cup, to a DD cup, from that slim straight hip figure to the curvacious Monroes out there.

Even more, there is really no increasing and decreasing. There is, in a sense, but not in the traditional way. The traditional way of working increases does occur when working from the should along the armhole. But for the busy, hip and waist shaping, there is no change in the number of sts, only in the size of the sts!

Busttier Top, on dress form

Bustier Top, on dress form

And since this piece works from the top down, it is easy to just try as you go. Basically, the sts change in size for shaping. Using more smaller sts (instead of the bigger sts) result in a smaller area. Just as a simple example, let’s say we have 50 sts all the way around (this is just figuratively here).

When shaping around the waist, someone with a small waist may work 20 small sts and 30 large sts, and someone with little curvature may work 5 small sts and 45 large sts. Someone with your average curves may work 10 small sts and 40 large sts. And then the distance one works the amount of large sts and small sts over can be cutomized as well – and this is very important when it comes to the bust. A larger bust will need more area to be covered.

Bustier Top, edging

Bustier Top, edging

The pattern of course gives guides as a baseline, but when it comes to customization – the floor is yours!

My favorite part, aside from the customization, is the edging. Oh, how you really will see how beautiful it is when you work it up. Without closeups in the magazine, it is hard for one to really see how it brings together the whole top to a final grand finale. I call it my closed floral lace stitching. I had a lot of testers work this top up and will see about getting some of their photos posted here! If you work this top up, please let me know how it goes!

I will write in later blog  posts about the other items of interest in this issue  – Rainbow Rolls and an article!

Dragonfly Shawl – Published, Interweave Crochet Winter 2008

The Dragonfly Shawl has now made its appearance in the Winter Issue of Interweave Crochet. I have been cautiously waiting for its release. Why cautious? I think perhaps it is more a reserved excitement… as I do not think this creation has completely made its way through my brain that it is complete, that I finally finished it.

And here it is, the Dragonfly Shawl. For some, here is the Dragonfly Shawl on Ravelry. Each time I look at it, and I know it sounds bad since I am the designer, but each time I look at it, I wish I still had it with me to wrap around and admire it. I have always had a love for little winged creatures.. whether butterflies (and yes, butterflies especially), dragonflies, ladybugs…

And while I am quite frightened of dragonflies, I admire them from afar. Kind of like when you admire something or someone that intimidates you, but not in a bad or condescending way, but in a way in which your admiration is due to a longing of finding yourself and really honing in on what you would like to become. No, I do not want to become a dragonfly…

The beauty, the grace – that is what I wanted in this shawl… I wanted it to sway in the breeze effortlessly with grace off of one’s shoulders… I wanted the beauty to be delicate, yet strong. I wanted it to portray the passion – the flight of the dragonfly, to flutter, then soar right past and leave one’s heart pounding. I hope it does just that…

Dragonfly Shawl

Dragonfly Shawl

This design was a DIP (Design In Progress – how I refer to them as) for 6 or 8 months. I really admired knitted shawls. There are some pretty fantabulous (yes, another Lisa word) shawls out there in crochet! But I wanted something that would literally, take one’s breath away, for a moment… At the same time, I did not want it to be so difficult, that not even a master crocheter would not be able to do it. Then, there was also the task of keeping the pattern at a relatively decent length (that will be another post, length of patterns).

A very early protoype, which was soon ripped and not part of the later infant prototypes. The striations were a go, but how ti shape and mold them into the beloved dragonfly?

A very early prototype, which was soon ripped and not part of the later infant prototypes. The striations were a go, but how to shape and mold them into the beloved dragonfly?

I had to constantly think ahead (and yet again, thinking ahead in pattern writing, due out in another blog post), because the action of what I do in one row could effect greatly another row and its wording, and thus the domino effect.. before you know it, your pattern cold be 10 to the 10th power pages long (well, not literally, I hope), but you get the meaning.

I also do confess.. this was my first time ever working with a laceweight yarn. I am not a stranger though to size 10 thread, or even size 30 thread. The only wool I had ever been in contact with was Lion Brand Wool-Ease (worsted weight blend which I dearly love) for my Rugged Mountain Hat & Mitten Collection and Schoeller + Stahl Baby Micro (fingering weight wool -a dream to work with), that I used for the Stone Path Hat, Interweave Crochet, Winter 2007 issue.

So, though I have worked with wool before, and I have worked with everything from a size 30 thread with a size 10 steel hook through a wool fingering weight.. I had never worked with a laceweight wool before, except for what I was swatching that shawl with. The yarn used for the Dragonfly Shawl was a dream to work with – Jade Sapphire Exotic Fibres, Lacey Lamb. Talk about an induction into laceweight yarn… Silky soft.. the yarn glided and moved with hook harmoniously… I will be making many more shawls now that I have had a taste of laceweight yarn, and Lacey Lamb will be at the top of my list. What colors??

While working on the Oxford Town Bag for Interweave Crochet (Fall 2008 issue), here is the infant shawl in the background, still in its infancy stages. To get a chance of pace from the tote, I would sometimes work on the shawl before putting it back in the DIP pile.

While working on the Oxford Town Bag for Interweave Crochet (Fall 2008 issue), here is the infant shawl in the background, still in its infancy stages. To get a chance of pace from the tote, I would sometimes work on the shawl before putting it back in the DIP pile.

So.. how did this shawl really come to be. I never thought it would come to be anything. I had it as a DIP for a long while. I would take it, only to put it back in hibernation until I felt the urge to play around with it again. I was emailing Kim Werker (Editor of Interweave Crochet) some photos of possible propositions of submissions. (I intended to send in a swatch later if any were remotely interesting). That is enough detail on that. So.. here I am rummaging through my computer of my DIPS. It was quite late, maybe past midnight. I sent numerous photos and every so often I would email her saying, I do have a *partial* shawl DIP.

I did not send it. I sent a couple more.

Again, I said I do have a photo somewhere of a shawl I have been sort of working on, but it is a piece of art that has been in the works a LONG, long time. *Sent off a few more photos of other DIPS.*

Then, I cannot even find the photo of the shawl on my computer.. Yes, me and my scatterbrainedness (a Lisa word). Finally, I find it. Now, this shawl had been in the works for many many maaannnyy months.

Shawl in infancy

Shawl in infancy

Do I dare send it? I am sure it would illicit no response. What the heck. So I send her this goofey photo. Unblocked of course, showing no detail of the possibilities it *could* have.

I cannot tell you how many times this shawl was ripped out and reworked. And I will say, laceweight is not always that easy to rip out. I really needs the gentle touch… Kind of like with a toddler, you need to be gently, but firm. Too gentle, and nothing changes.. too firm, well, you may have throbbing ears for a while from that resistant one :)

I also had a photo up against the miniblinds in my kitchen. This one at least showed a bit more detail. But still, nowhere near the vision I had. It was still all crinkled up. Since the photo was only for my own benefit, I never bothered to smooth out the progression of the shawl, or “what could be.”

Shawl in infancy, photo 2

This photo though was the one that did it. Kim was interested. She saw something alive there. She saw the potential. It was like she immediately read my mind and knew what I was trying to do with this shawl. I credit her eye for detail, her gift for seeing the beauty beneath the chaos… her ability to envision the possibilities… So, it was a done deal after all was just that, said and done. She asked, can you hash out this design on such and such tight deadline? “Sure I said!….” After that, shaking my head but not surprised.

Sometimes I need a good kick in the hiney to get a project off its feet. This one had been in the works much too long.. it was time for it to be developed. I was

Sun pic! Taken on porch.. Not sure if I was trying to fly at the angle this photo was taken??

Sun pic! Taken on porch.. Not sure if I was trying to fly at the angle this photo was taken??

worried, but excited. Excited to finish it, worried of how I would in such limited time. I work pretty well both under pressure and at leisure.. And if I knew myself, I knew that I would still churn out a quality design.. I just wondered, am I sure this time I would?? After all, it has been a design under my desk since dawn of the last creepy crawlers.

Before Edging

Before Edging

Yeah, can you tell I love my clothespins?? I swear, those things are the GREATEST invention.. In a pinch they are wonderful for pinning hair up in a bun for a midnight run to the corner store.

You see, working up a pattern is much, much different, or well, takes less thought when not in pattern-writing mode. Basically, it is almost like free-form.. You are following a guide (say your guide may be a triangle shape) and you just continue crocheting and working and trying on as you go etc.

When writing a pattern, for me at least, I am always thinking one step ahead. As I said earlier, something done in Row 5 can have a cascading effect in Rows 6-30. This shawl works not from tip, not side to side, but begins with a mini triangle. Think of a triangle having 2 tips and one point. The point is the central part (see bottom of shawl in photo) with a tip at the other 2 corners of the shawl (by one’s arms). So this shawl worked from one tip, to point, to next tip. That way, one can work until length and width are as desired.

So anyway… You see the diagonal heavy lines, and then the open airy diagonal lines? Those coincide with the stacking diamond spine. If you look closely, a heavy line occurs at the center side of each diamond. This is where the writing became tricky. When space is a concern, I HAD to take into account and somehow form a repeat. This was VERY difficult and well, think I went through major carb overdose with the amount my brain neurons were firing… See, the shawl is symmetrical.

Photo posted with permission from Interweave Press

Photo posted with permission from Interweave Press

So, going up one side of the shawl, to the point, and then going back down the next side, this increases the number of heavy lines and airy lines each subsequent row. When writing one side before the point, I had to be careful that the rebound (the side on the other side of the point) would not take up too many words.

I really tried to get it so I could eventually say rep rows “X through Y” until such and such. Getting distance between X and Y a minimal number was a task.. with instructions on one side along with different instructions on the rebound, and getting all of those rows to eventually repeat themselves so as to not have a 20 page or more pattern, was a whole new endeavor.

This pattern really refined my writing skills. Not only did I have to make this pattern’s instructions compact while designing it, I also had to keep in mind clarity for crocheters. It would be nice, if I could have had nested repeats (a repeat within a repeat, within a repeat), but alas, I would definitely end up with many upset crocheters :)

Photo posted with permission from Interweave Press

Then came the edging. And I say, then came the edging. I looked at my shriveled, decrepit looking piece of “art,” wondering how I was going to pull the edging off without it being a mountain of a pattern.

You see, I had a thing going.. my dragonfly theme. My plan was a play on negative space. See the strong striations coming from the diamond spine? At first, I was thinking of doing something overlapping.. And then I thought, do I want there to be a division line between the body of the shawl and the edging? I played around, but a stark division line would ruin my idea of having the negative space aspect to it….

So I had the heavy striations meet, creating wings… then between those slender wings, would again, be wings, with a pointy scalloped tips. I am not sure how long it really took me to come to this decision, but it was a lot of sketching, a lot of ripping, a lot of redoing, a lot of stretching, all the while praying I would not break the yarn too many times.

A contemplated edging. I was on to something I though as I continued to experiment and try different things... Photo taken right on my knee, so in case I ripped, I would have a moment to refer back to :)

Now my next quest was, how to get a REALLY lacey-but soul-grasping lace effect? Something not done before.. Something different. Something that would leave a wing-print, so to speak…

Well, you will need to see and work the pattern to see the technique I came up with to really cultivate a lace that cannot be deciphered solely upon a simple glance. It was fun trying to figure this out… Almost like a challenge was bestowed upon me, where the prize would be the intrinsic satisfaction of knowing that I figure out how to put in hand and yarn what I envisioned in my mind.

Blocking, take 1. It did what it needed to do, but of course, blocking wasn't perfect. Soon transferred onto a blanket on floor.. Worked much better. Now what to do with all of this strofoam??

Blocking, take 1. Blocking soon transferred to a blanket on floor. What to do with all the styrofoam?

Designing this shawl in laceweight yarn has opened up a whole new realm for me. I now want to design a whole case of shawls in laceweight! I was hooked at the start.. but for some reason, it felt wrong if I were to design a laceweight shawl before this coming out… I am not sure why, but I did not feel right. So, to satisfy my eagerness to design more shawls, I sketched. So now, I am unleashed!

Photo posted with permission from Interweave Press.

Photo posted with permission from Interweave Press.

I will let you know, this pattern is not for those who are seeking a quick and easy pattern. This pattern will challenge the intermediate (though in a good way), and will give those advanced crafters something different to work. This is a piece of art you are making… This is not your sit in front of the tube and work mindlessly.

This is an heirloom project. Not only will the material be delicate, but it will take a careful and watchful eye. I am always here to help.

When working up this project, think of it not as just that- a project… Think of it as a path to the dragonfly within you, whatever your dragonfly is.

A Big Book? What do you think?

I had a customer write me the other day… Here is what she wrote:

My husband bought me the rugged mountain pattern collection a few years ago
and I absolutely LOVE them! I would love for you to publish a book with only
your patterns in it! I am a huge fan of your work! Keep it up Lisa! You
rock!

I actually have been contemplating this for a while. Although I have a couple of smaller books out: Lisa’s New & Easy Cable Afghans & Throws, and Hats, Scarves & Mittens For The Family, a big hardcover book is very enticing.

Lisa's New & Easy Cable Afghans & Throws

4 cable designs utilizing a new cable technique

Hats, Scarves & Mittens For The Family

Hats, Scarves & Mittens For The Family

P.S. These books are now available for purchase through the Crochet Garden, along with a few others!

What kind of book would you like to see? I actually have started on some swatches and sketches for a possible book.. and have a couple of themes in mind.

Book with just baby patterns? A book with baby and tot patterns? A book with a mix of things? Maybe, “best of the Crochet Garden?” What do you want to see in a book? What books do you have that you love? Out of the books you like, what is it about them that you like?

I would love to hear your thoughts!

On another note… Garden Lullaby

Sizes Newborn - 12 mos

Sizes Newborn - 12 mos

has now been released! It comes in sizes Newborn to 12 mos.. I think it is a darling little dress… When I see this dress, I think of a little one, “helping” mom out on the laundry line.. It has been such a while since I did a thread dress. What next, maybe a Christening dress?

Oh, I wish there was more time in the day. I am now up to 3 binders full of designs and sketches. Each time I think of a new idea, out the binders come, and in goes another piece of paper… I am so worried about not remembering a design later- with how scatterbrained I am.

It is nice though, having them. Sometimes, I have editors come to me needing a design in a specific yarn. Sometimes I think of an idea right there on the spot. Other times, I just pull out my binder, photograph a few pages, then email them to the editor. I like having numerous ideas at my fingertips.. and so far, editors like it, or well, at least I think they do!

So.. about this big, book idea. I am feeling confident enough that I could pull off designing an incredible book. I do have things in motion. I am not yet ready though to propose the idea, as I feel I need to greatly cultivate it. So, please, lend me your thoughts! The biggest thing though, and not that it is an absolute when writing a book, but something that gave me even more of a drive to work on this book idea:

A while ago (not that long ago), I started to tech-edit some crochet patterns. Now, one does not need to be a tech editor to write a successful book proposal. I just feel that it adds to my skills. When I was asked to do tech editing, I was quite shocked. However, a multitude of reasons contributed… I was told I am highly detail oriented.. Which, I will have to agree, but only on a certain level. See, my desk, is a disaster :) I lose things all the time. I have notes here and there, hooks falling down.. towers of binders and papers trying to reach a new definition of “balancing act,” along with paperclips and safety pins.. Now, give me one piece of paper and ask me to solve a complex math problem, no problem! Give me a photo to edit and my eye zones in on each and every detail. Ask me to read a book, and I will remember in Chapter 1 what color shirt the protagonist was wearing (that is, if the author mentioned this).

I have concluded, my scattered-brainedness had to with the physical location of objects! And I am thinking, it is due to my over-detailed part of the brain.. so this other part of brain is squeezed out. Yes.. that is it. (Or maybe my rational of why I am always late because I can never find the keys?!

Well, more on the tech editing another time, maybe tomorrow. It was a very new experience for me, one I feel deserves a post all its own.. and well, gives me something new to write about so I do not neglect my poor blog!